Click pix for larger version. This is the standard "ladder rig," using half a 20' extension ladder (each piece is 10'). The ladder rungs are padded. The ladder is attached to roof-top carriers with straps. The glider is attached with a second set of straps. The glider tips are tensioned down onto the hood and secured with simple clips common to bicycle racks. This (Saturn 167) glider is 20 feet long, giving an overhang at each end of 5 feet. The rig is secure and easily tolerates high speeds in 4-wheel drive over bouncy, rugged terrain. On this SUV, distance between racks is 52". Narrower base may require aft tie-down. After-market roof racks (Yakima) shown but stock auto racks also work.
Pros
1. Quick assembly. No modification of vehicle required.
2. Inexpensive.
3. Pads are on ladder not racks, so no sun damage.
Cons
1. One glider only. Additonal gliders require additional ladders.
I'd like to suggest a solution for getting the glider onto a ladder (or other roofrack) if your car is a bit high.
Prepare a piece of iron tubing that fits snug into one of the ladders rungs. Stick it into a rung on the front end of the car, so that it sticks out at the side; lay the glider onto it, put the other end down on the ground. Now, take the grounded end and lift it onto the ladder.
It may be practical to have a second tube to lift the second end on, then roll the glider onto the ladder.
Some of my friends have minivans and use this trick. If the van is really high but has a ladder on the backside to give access to the roof, you can climb this ladder with the glider end on your shoulder, or use a rope to hoist it up.
Of course the same trick works if you got just a roofrack.
Make sure you never drive off with the tube still in the rung...!
The way I look at it, gliders flex well but are most vulnerable to dings. I feel better about this rig for climbing mountains than with the glider cinched down tight in a pile of 10 as it bangs through ruts.
